As much as we love hearing about new and revolutionary ingredients that are going to ‘change the face of beauty’ (no pun intended), it makes it increasingly difficult to work out which ingredients are really worth the hype. So, we spoke to celeb dermatologist, founder of Lancer Skincare and author of Younger: The Breakthrough Anti-Aging Method for Radiant Skin, Dr. Lancer, to find out which ingredients are actually going to make a difference to our skin.
We’ve had dermatologists from all over the world recommend these five ingredients, and now Dr. Lancer has revealed that they’re his secret for giving his A-list clients, like Victoria Beckham, Margot Robbie, and Kim Kardashian, their radiant, glowy skin. Take notes…
1. Hyaluronic Acid
Suitable for: All skin types, and all ages.
Dr. Lancer says that whenever dermatologists are “talking about active ingredients to look for, hyaluronic acid definitely makes the list.” You could in fact, already be using it, as it’s the hydrating ingredient in SO many beauty products. Dr. Lancer explains that “it’s a sugar produced by the body; it absorbs water and plumps up skin – it’s what gives babies the bounce in their cheeks.” He explained that “the body’s levels of hyaluronic acid decreases over time with natural aging, due to poor lifestyle habits. When it’s used as an ingredient in skincare like moisturizers, it helps skin to combat dryness and irritation.” Dr. Lancer also adds that it’s even more effective when combined with another skincare essential on the list, vitamin C. The bottom line is: you need it in your regime if you want hydrated, dewy, and more youthful skin. Find out more about hyaluronic acid and all its uses here.
How to use: You can buy pure hyaluronic acid, and it’s super easy to incorporate into your routine. We like to apply ours after we’ve toned while our skin is still damp, which helps it absorb better. We love Yeouth’s Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $15, which absorbs into the skin almost instantly, and The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid + B5, $7.
Suitable for: Most skin types (except dry, sensitive, and Rosacea-prone skin), age 25+.
Another ingredient you need to have on your skincare shopping list is retinol. Dr. Lancer insists that “retinol is the key when it comes to anti-aging, as it works to improve texture, pigmentation, tone, fine lines, and wrinkles,” and that “your regime is otherwise lacking without it.” Although he does add that when you first start using retinol you should “be patient and start slowly to get your skin acclimated.” He also adds that “a little goes a long way and that you should always “wear SPF (and reapply every two hours)” to prevent it from damaging your skin as it’s a very potent ingredient. You can buy any over-the-counter retinol cream at the drugstore, however, once you hit 30 you should look at more potent formulas, like the Lancer Advanced Retinol Treatment, $95.
How to use: Because retinol is very strong, it’s best to start slow – especially if you have rosacea, sensitive or very dry skin (consider consulting with your dermatologist first). For the first two weeks, start using it at nighttime, only once or twice a week. By week three, use it two to three times a week, and after one month, if your skin hasn’t had a reaction (got very dry), you can then try using it every other night. If you’re using AHAs or BHAs anywhere in your skincare routine, these should not be used on the same night that you use a retinol.
3. Mechanical and Chemical Exfoliants
Suitable for: Normal, combination and oily skin, avoid if you have very dry or sensitive skin.
Guidelines: Exfoliate 3 times per week maximum.
One thing Dr. Lancer believes is that “exfoliation is critical to skincare” and that it should be incorporated into “the first step of your cleansing routine.” Dr. Lancer advises his clients to use a “polishing product that uses a combination of mechanical and chemical” exfoliators, more specifically sea minerals, as they contain natural exfoliating enzymes (including plant-based), and fruit-based enzymes. He also believes “if there’s anything you should splurge on, it’s a high-quality polisher with superfine scrubbers and enough emollient.” We’ve got to admit we’ve been using the Lancer Method: Polish, $75, and it makes our skin feel ahhhmazing. We also love the H20+ Elements exfoliator, $20, which contains biodegradable exfoliating beads and jojoba and water lily to soften and nourish the skin.
4. Vitamin C
Suitable for: All skin types, and all ages.
Guidelines: Use a vitamin C serum in the morning to protect skin from free radical damage.
No ingredient list would be complete without this skin-saving vitamin. Dr. Lancer says vitamin C is “the workhorse of anti-aging ingredients as it has the ability to improve skin’s radiance, even skin’s tone, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.” He does also add that you need to make sure that there needs to be “adequate amounts and stable forms for it to be effective; look for vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid, which will offer the best anti-aging payoff.” Of course, you can also apply the vitamin in its most natural form – straight from an orange! Check out our brightening vitamin C hack here.
Be cautious of: Avoid using high concentrations of vitamin C with retinol, salicylic, glycolic and lactic acid. If you’re new to vitamin C serums, don’t start with the most potent formula, instead work your way up to avoid irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, be sure to check the ingredients, as many serums use silicones or active ingredients to stabilize vitamin C, which could react with your skin.
5. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):
Suitable for: Normal, combo, oily and acne-prone skin.
Guidelines: Only use one product containing AHAs daily.
For more youthful skin, Dr. Lancer says “exfoliation is important in your cleansing routine and can further be implemented in advanced treatments.” Dr. Lancer recommends AHAs which “are exfoliants that remove dead and damaged skin cells; reduce fine lines, age spots, discoloration and acne scars.” More specifically, glycolic acid, which “is the original AHA used in skincare products.” However, you shouldn’t go overboard with AHA-containing products in your skincare regime, as they’re very potent; so if you use an exfoliator with AHAs, avoid a toner that also has AHAs. We love The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, $13!
Finally, Dr. Lancer reminds us that with all of these ingredients “if you are just starting to introduce them into your skincare, you should ease into it.” He continues to explain that this means “you have to introduce new treatments gradually and be diligent with a schedule. Separate day and night use products, and apply (and reapply) sunscreen throughout the day.”
Let us know if you use any of these in the comments below, and any of your fav product recommendations.